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by KAREN ANAND.
Romans are used to dining well. Ancient Rome had a reputation for lavish banquets where dormice, offal, sweetbreads, and tripe were considered special as well as the more familiar oysters and ham from their empire. Today Rome is a much more cosmopolitan city albeit deeply rooted in tradition which has an abundance of cereals and legumes, seasonal fruit, and vegetables, all featuring on local restaurant menus and catering to the growing trend towards meat-free options. These are my picks from a recent visit:
INEO
The hushed soft tones, low lighting, and a handful of tables in this restaurant, are a dead giveaway that you are about to embark on serious and fine dining. Chef Heros De Agostinis’s creations are much talked about in the city and his cuisine is a mix of his family history (Abruzzo and Eritrea), traditional Roman, and a wonderful choice for vegetarians known simply as “GREEN”. Choose from the ceviche of winter vegetables; open raviolo with wild mushroom and uncinatum truffle (also known as the Burgundy truffle although they come from Northern Italy and North East France); celeriac and saffron risotto; pumpkin, cauliflower, citrus fruit and curry, and a delicious prickly pear, puffed chocolate and blackberry sorbet.
There’s much to eat and talk about on the regular menu with some downright exceptional dishes, like the hand-made macherroni with Madeira sauce, slow cooked beef and Parmesan.
An exceptional 44 page wine list—Cartizze bubbly—superior DOCG Prosecco which comes from a very small area of vineyards in the Valdobbiadene region and very well priced; Case Bianche Tenuta Enza La Fauci, an intense white wine from Sicily and many fine Amarone della Valpolicella. Go for the seven-course menu at 165 euros (about Rs14,540) or the Green five-course menu at 145 euros (about Rs12,785). Well worth it.
Vivi – Le Serre
If you get tired of pasta, trattorie and cobbled streets, and restricted lunch and dinner timings, then Vivi is your answer. A green oasis in a magical private garden in Monte Mario, in front of Villa Stuart, the restaurant is open all day long from 12 to 12 midnight. Set in greenhouses which change with the seasons: in summer they are a cool lounge with pleasant and lush flower gardens and in winter they become a warm and bright winter garden, softened by the light of a crackling fireplace—a modern space with glass, greenery and light and retro furniture.
Vivi is organic by vocation. All their vegetables, meats, wines and ingredients come from the best organic suppliers in Rome. A great place for a late lunch, a cocktail, a piece of cake and exceedingly good coffee or tea and mindful, healthy eating. They do serve meat (their hamburgers are pretty spectacular) but come here for a salad, avo on toast, sushi and a negroni in the evening. Prices are reasonable with mains from 10-15 euros (about Rs1,322) and cocktails at a flat 10 euros (about Rs881).
Angelina al Porto Fluviale
There are a couple of Angelinas in the city so choose the right one. This one has an air of “Buenos Aires” about it; street art outside, seating on the street with wrought iron furniture, a superb bar as you walk in, which is steeped in the 50s; the perfect place for lunch with a girlfriend, or a well brought up left-wing revolutionary (preferably south American and good looking). Lots on offer for vegetarians—eggplant parmigiana, winter panzanella salad with pumpkin and purple cabbage; fennel gratin, spinach with lemon sauce; roasted winter veggies.
There’s a very affordable daily lunch menu which starts at 13 euros (about Rs1,146) for a main and a side veggie dish. Desserts are to die for (many different tiramisu and cakes) and the coffee is excellent. There’s also a take away patisserie counter.
La Fraschetta di Mastro Giorgio
To find the true taste of real Rome, you have to head past the Colosseum to an area known as Testaccio. La Fraschetta di Mastro Giorgio (there are many Fraschettas in Rome so ensure you are at the right one) has a canopy of vine creepers if you choose to sit outdoors. Inside it’s a regular trattoria with straw seated chairs and wooden tables and there will most likely to only be Italians—Romans I’m guessing, eating what the restaurant is famous for —pasta carbonara made with organic artisanal pasta, organic egg yolk, pecorino Romano DOP cheese, and guanciale.
The vegetarian Cacio e Pepe, so typically Roman, is served here with wild chicory. The hot water of the tonnarelli or spaghetti is creamed with pecorino cheese and fresh pepper making it saucy. If it’s artichoke season, you must try the Roman style artichoke, a great classic, cooked with mint, parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper. Prices are Roman also—15-20 euros (about Rs1,763) for pasta and 20-25 (about Rs2,204) euros for mains.
SEEN by Olivier da Costa
Ideal for a sunset aperitif or a trendy dinner, SEEN IS the rooftop terrace of the Anantara Palazzo Naiadi (book now) with breathtaking views of Rome. The brand is now synonymous with glamour, style, music, and food culture. It has a delightful outdoor seating area (testament to Rome’s good weather) overlooking the piazza and a pulsating bar and restaurant full of young people.
In between the platters of sushi and sashimi doing the rounds, there’s a significant plant-based offering which includes deep fried tapioca and spicy guava jam, organic beetroot carpaccio with macadamia and capers and zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta.
The cocktails are a must try—Have you seen Paloma (tequila, cardamom syrup, pink grapefruit soda), Old Fashioned Lovers (bourbon, Pedro Ximenez syrup, chocolate bitters), Thyme to Cook (gin, Campari, vermouth, thyme)—a sort of grown up negroni. You have to try them all. An expensive restaurant even by Roman standards. Sushi is in the range of 25 euros (about Rs2,204) for 4 pieces, starters 20-40 euros (about Rs3,527) and cocktails at a flat 20 euros (about Rs1,763) , but then this is definitely the place to be “seen”.
Da Edy
I was recommended this trattoria off the busy Via del Babuino near the Spanish steps by a few Romans and to tell the truth, I was a bit taken aback since it’s in the middle of such a touristy area. The neighbourhood of Tridente, was historically a hub for artists, writers, and upmarket travellers and the Via del Babuino which used to be full of luxury stores and antique shops, has now given way to outlet designer and souvenir shops.
Nevertheless, I ploughed on and found it off on a tiny cobbled street and sat outside. I tried their pasta alle cime di rapa (a sort of wild broccoli) which was excellent. I then noticed many plant- based options, ideal for the contemporary traveller wanting a quick lunch whilst doing the sites; many gnocchi dishes (mozzarella, tomato, basil, Romana), tagliatelle with ricotta and artichokes; tagliatelle with fresh porcini, risotto with saffron and lemon… and all reasonably priced, around 12-14 euros (about Rs1,234). And of course they have all the Roman staples, too, amatriciana, saltimbocca alla Romana (sliced veal with ham), and lamb brain with artichokes.
See Original Article at Condé Nast Traveller
